April 25 – May 15: A plane ticket booked on a whim just two months prior, and before I knew it, I was in Korea. A very impromptu trip (like almost all the ones I’ve taken in recent years), which subsequently took me to Japan for the third time, and then to Hong Kong and Beijing. But let’s focus on one country at a time.
Of course, when I say Korea, I clearly mean South Korea: I didn’t even have time to go to the demilitarized zone, let alone cross the border (as if it were that easy anyway…). For convenience, however, I’ll refer to the country by the single name. And here’s a little spoiler: despite having three weeks, I tried very few pizzerias.
When I travel to countries whose culinary culture is surprisingly close to my own tastes (yes, because I am a fussy eater, I don’t try everything), I find it hard to make room for pizza as I’d like: in fact, it’s a conscious choice. Since no one has bestowed upon me the sacred mission of trying every single pizzeria on the globe – however much I’d like to – I prefer to give them less space. But I try to be selective: after ten years of blogging, where everyone now talks about the world’s most famous pizzerias sponsored by the usual rankings, my gaze has shifted towards the lesser-known names.
And that’s why you won’t find a ranking winner like Spaccanapoli in Seoul here: sure, I would have liked to try it, but everyone already talks about it, I can postpone it until next time. It’s also why, although this blog has always focused on Neapolitan pizza, some of these pizzerias deviate quite a bit from the traditional methodology. And that’s fine: for years now I’ve learned to broaden my horizons and look beyond my own region (and if you follow my Facebook and Instagram profiles, where I first talk about the pizzerias I visit, you’ll have realized that). After all, it’s more fun this way, and you also come across gems whose merit is not so much the product, but the story behind it.
So, are you ready for another fantastic journey? Let’s discover together where to eat Neapolitan pizza in Korea.
Vera Pizza & Pasta, Itaewon, Seoul
The name and AVPN affiliation leave little to the imagination: they serve authentic Neapolitan pizza and Campanian cuisine. But the atmosphere is certainly not that of a rustic trattoria: the place occupies the entire third floor of a luxury building, in the heart of a really nice neighborhood. The decor is a bit stereotypical, with an abundance of Vietri ceramics and lemon arbor pergolas, but I have to say it didn’t bother me: in its own way, there is a certain taste for elegance. The pizza chosen is obviously a Margherita: small, a little crunchy, and a bit chewy. Not bad, but the best is yet to come in the next few days. In this place, I learn the all-Korean habit of always serving pizza with a small salad and pickles. When in Korea…
Volare, Banpo, Seoul
We’re very far south in the city, almost near Gangnam. The pizzeria is on a residential street: small, but with refined tones. Second lesson I learn about Korean habits: tap water placed on the table even before you can ask for it, with continuous free refills. However, I’m not surprised by what I see on other tables: I already knew Korean habits involve sharing food, and in fact at tables with more people, the pizza arrives already cut with a spatula for serving, and small plates are on the table from the start. When they saw me alone, however, they were thoughtful enough to ask if I wanted it whole. Again, a Margherita, also small here, but with phenomenal dough and an explosion of authentic flavors: a really high level. As I write these lines, I know the pizzaiolo who made my pizza has left to open his own place. I wonder if anything has changed…
Baking Dough, Jongno, Seoul
Here, more than the pizza, I found a story. Attracted by a very cute three-story building with wood displayed outside, I decided to go in. This time I ordered a Margherita with chorizo, Spanish spicy salami. It’s a very simple pizza, flavorful but nothing exceptional. But the story behind it is relevant: the young pizzaiola who made my pizza tells me she learned from her father, who in turn learned by watching videos online. And he designed and built the small building himself: the father is an architect. Few seats on two floors (the third will be offices), but the building is right next to the garden of Changdeokkung Palace, offering a stunning view of trees and ancient roofs. For this alone, it deserves a visit.
The European, Suwon
The name, and the claim of offering “European cuisine” makes you smile… until you think that here in Europe we also have Asian cuisine restaurants, which means everything and nothing. But this place attracted me not so much for the photos of extreme, excessively leopard-print canotto, but for the creativity of the toppings used, with seemingly daring combinations. Did I want something different? Well then, I had to try. I order the fattiest pizza there is, with fiordilatte, salmon, and a white cream I unfortunately forgot what was made of because, in the rush of the last order, I forgot to take a picture of the ingredient list. But I can tell you that the pizza was quite a surprise: the puffy crust I feared would be raw and hard to chew was sublimely light; and the combination of flavors was fatty, yes, but not heavy at all, actually very delicate. The place is hard to miss: it’s right next to Haenggung Palace, one of the two main attractions in Suwon, along with Hwaseong Fortress.
Papero, Jeju City, Jeju
Jeju Island, besides being one of the favorite destinations for tourists in Korea, also has a particular significance for us Neapolitans: it is, in fact, the place where in 2017 the UNESCO committee met to decree the art of the Neapolitan pizzaiuolo a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. And what did I do to celebrate? I climbed the highest mountain in all of Korea: Hallasan, an extinct volcano, just like Vesuvius.
But back to pizza. Even on the island, searching Google for “Neapolitan pizza,” I got various results. Not all up to par, and indeed the only two pizzerias that really attracted me were Pizzeria Philia and Jepoli. But there’s a third pizzeria that caught my attention: for the name, but especially for the location, easier to reach. Papero, in the capital Jeju City (and in a very wealthy area too).
It sells itself as an Italian pizzeria and trattoria, and it “obliges” you to have at least one drink with your meal, alcoholic or non-alcoholic: the restaurant was born as a wine bar, and they remain open as such until midnight even after closing the kitchen. It’s a small, elegant place, with few tables and a counter: and in fact, to secure a spot, you need to book at least a couple of days in advance. Even the dough balls are counted, and the menu asks you not to order more than one pizza per person (but I did, fortunately there were still some left). Despite the refined environment, there’s a very homely atmosphere, with the kitchen located right in the center of the room, in full view, and pizzas cooked in two Roccbox ovens. I had a long chat with one of the two owners, Young-Rok Kim, and their pizzeria certainly deserves a more in-depth article.
Aledang, Inkseon-dong, Seoul
Inkeson-dong is one of the most popular hanok villages in the capital: those neighborhoods with traditional Korean houses, often converted into shops, cafes, or restaurants. I had spotted the atypical menu of Aledang since my first visit, and that’s why, returning to Seoul at the end of my trip, I decided to visit it. Besides the hanok location, three things struck me: the oval-shaped pizzas (like pizza alla pala); the combinations of local ingredients (I saw pizzas with perilla leaves and bulgogi meat); and the fact that they served local craft beer. I don’t drink beer, but in the name of the full experience, I ordered one, and it was very fruity and refreshing. For the pizza, I tried not to experiment too much: a four-cheese pizza topped with hallabong marmalade, a citrus fruit typical of Jeju Island. A classic sweet-salty contrast pizza, just as Koreans like it. Cooked in an electric oven, but with the leopard spotting and chewiness of a Neapolitan. I have to say I was very satisfied.
Bonus: Nuvola Pizza, Gwangalli, Busan
I’m adding a pizzeria I didn’t try. Exactly. Unfortunately, I discovered Nuvola Pizzeria, near Gwangalli Beach, too late, on my second and last evening in Busan. Despite that, I couldn’t leave the country’s second-largest city off my list: a fantastic and unreal place. So my bonus is advice: the Naver app, which replaces Google Maps in Korea, always shows you the last order time for any business. Make sure you sit down before that time is reached, because the closing time might be an hour later, but that’s for the kitchen to clean up and serve those already seated. In any case, judging by online photos, it seems like a worthy pizzeria: if anyone goes, let me know.
Extra Bonus: The last Korean pizza
Yes, indeed, Korean: the idea they have of pizza around here. One thing I wanted to do was try at least one pizzeria from a local chain or spot. But I held back, always with the idea that I preferred the local cuisine and, if it had to be pizza, it should at least be pizza meeting Italian standards. As luck would have it, on my last evening in Hongdae – right in the area of Spaccanapoli, which I didn’t try – I went into a listening bar and met a Korean couple. Now, it’s impossible not to make friends with Koreans, because it will almost always be them who speak to you first and offer you a drink. In this case, one of them, when he saw my pizza Instagram profile, said to me, “You absolutely have to try Korean pizza.” No sooner said than done, an order was placed at a nearby pizzeria. What arrived was a mess I wouldn’t even know how to describe in terms of ingredients. But, can I say one thing? It was good. It tasted of companionship. The kind that leads to sharing meals and strangers offering you dinner (I clearly couldn’t manage more than a second slice). It’s a shame I didn’t note the pizzeria’s name, but that’s okay: what matters is the moment experienced.
And here is where I close my report on pizza in Korea. A short account compared to my stay, I know, but I preferred it that way. The country is there, as always, ready to welcome me once more when I return, with its charge of energy, Neapolitan pizzas, and also a bit quirky ones. And I can’t wait to try many more.
감사합니다, 대한민국
To find out more about my trip to Korea, check out my Instagram stories here and here.
This is an AI-assisted translation of the original Italian article, which I have lightly edited. Please let me know if you notice any mistakes!
